Unfortunately we often forget to think about the impact of our landscaping with time.  After all, plants are living organisms that grow and change.  What might be nice now, will change, and considering your landscaping job with long-term maintenance in mind will save you time and money in the long run. 

1.  Plan it out.  Get some graph paper if it helps you.  Draw out your landscaping project on paper.  It will help you visualize and estimate costs of bedding and plants.  Look for an note properties in your area that you like.  What types of plants are they using?  How many?  Take good notes on what you like about it and then add to your design.

2.  Think soft-edges rather than straight lines.  Most people respond well to landscapes with curves and turns rather than straight lines and hard edges.  It also makes it easier to maintain

3.  Don’t plant to close to the home.  Allow for, at least, a few feet from the edge of shrubbery and bushes to your homes foundation (typically 6 feet to center).  Give your plants some room to grow, they do get bigger, and you will appreciate the room on all sides of your plants when it comes time for trimming.  Planting away from your home will also decrease the number of insects and other pests leaving the outdoors for the comfort of the inside of your home.  Don’t give them easy access.  Finally, one of the biggest and often most costly mistakes home owners make is planting trees too close to the properties foundation.  This can lead to foundation stress or cracks, debris on the roof and in gutters, and damage to windows, eaves, and soffet.  That little schefflera you plant a few feet from the house, can and will turn into an enourmous tree.  Think about future growth, and plant accordingly.

4.  Consider seasonal changes into where you place your trees and shrubs, and which varieties you plant in the different locations.  We often see gorgeous christmas palms or ornamentals completely wiped out only because they were placed in an isolated, North facing location directly in the path of cold-front winds.  Just like animals, plants are affected by wind-chill factors.  Plant hardy cold-resistant plants in locations exposed to the winter chill. 

5.  Plant shade trees on the West or North West sides of the home.  Even if they are just saplings, in a few years, they can begin offering much needed shade to your home during the hottest parts of the day.  Even if they are too young now, this will increase property value down the road.

6.  Consider irrigation needs and current irrigation.  If you have irrigaiton installed, locate all sprinkler heads before digging and flag them.  1)  You don’t want to break a line.  2)  You want to ensure your new plants will receive plenty of water.  3)  You don’t want the new landscape to impede water coverage to existing plants and your lawn. 

7.  You have a broad range of choices for bedding from mulch to stone, so choose wisely.  Organics or inorganics?  Stone will last longer but cost more so consider replacement and upkeep costs into your planned design.  Mulch is more prone to weeds and insect infestation as well.  Color does matter.  So if you choose a rock or stone garden, look for more natural colors that enhance the colors of your home, but do not take away or hog the onlookers attention.  Its also best to buy in bulk, check prices and shop around.  1 Cubic yard of mulch will cover about 320 square feet.  Stone or rock, a little less.

8.  Maintaining your new landscape is at first easy.  You just need to get out and water the newly planted greenery as often as possible for a while.  You’re watering and watering, and hoping those flowers will bloom and those shrubs will begin to grow tall and healthy.  Well they usually do, and then its time to prune, cut, snip, clip, trim, and weed.  Then do it again, and again, and again, and again.  The less maintenance a plant requires or the easier it is to access, the easier life will be.  Plants such as Canary Palms or bouganvillas, although beautful, have some serious thorns.  Consider ease of maintenance into the equation before purchasing.

9.  Use borders that are easy to edge or weed-wack around.  Tall, non-arching, edging lends itself to difficult border maintenance.  The easier it is to manage the boundaries between your landscaping and your lawn, the quicker your maintenance will be, and the more time you will have to enjoy it.  Although costly, poured decorative concrete borders last a very long time and are easy to cut along and weed-wack.

10.  Don’t over do it!  A small one-gallon plant, in just a year or two, would easily occupy a 5-gallon container.  Your plants will grow.  I have a friend who has, unfortunately, a green thumb.  He bought a home about 7 years ago and planted and created a gorgeous landscape.  Now he has a difficult to maintain jungle.  A project that use to take about a half day to complete, now takes a 3-day weekend.

Christmas Trees at Lowe's in Indian Harbour Beach

Where- We don’t have a lot of choices here in Florida.  In most Northern states, you could go to a lot, a farm, or a forest to select your Christmas tree.  Here in Florida, you would think that the Christmas trees don’t grow on trees and so your pretty much limited to the Christmas tree lots which typically spring up right after Thanksgiving.  That is actually not the case.  There are dozens of Christmas tree farms in Florida.  The Florida Christmas Tree Association has a complete list.  Reasonable price, distance, and a good selection are important factors.

When - I am a firm believer in the unwritten law that Christmas does not start till after Thanksgiving.  Wives around the world disagree with me.  With proper care, a healthy tree will last well over a month inside your home if it was reasonably healthy when purchased, and the tree remains well irrigated.

What – Grown in Florida, are the pines and cypress varieties.  Shipped in, typically you will find the firs with most popular being the Douglas and the Frasier.  Whichever variety you choose, choose a tree that is healthy.  Color should be consistent with the variety you choose, no browning or black areas.  Needles should not fall off easily and the tree should not be brittle.  A good test is the ’shake’ technique:  Hold the tree by the center trunk, on end, and shake it firmly but gently.  You should only have some needle loss.

 Preparation- Once you have selected your Christmas tree, you should cut an inch or two off the base of the trunk.  Most tree vendors will do this for you.  This is so the tree can absorb water through its trunk.  Once you have a fresh-cut base, be careful not to bump or bruise the base or the water will not absorb through the trunk vasculaires easily.  The cut should remain good for absorption up to 6-8 hours but the sooner you get it into base, the better.  Also trim the lower branches high enough to fit into the base.  Leave room for presents!

Care - Once you place the tree securely into the base with water, its best to let the Christmas tree ’settle’ over night.  The branches will fall into place and some needles will fall off.  Water Water Water!  An unwatered tree will die quickly and also creates a fire hazard.  Even though the tree is not in the ground anymore, it will absorb quite a bit of water and lose most through evaporation.  Inside, dry, air conditioned homes or on crisp, cool days, a tree can go through quite a bit of water, so check it frequently.

Decorating - The most important part.  I prefer empty beer cans, but this is all up to your discretion!  Have fun and have a happy and merry Christmas!

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ANSWER:  The insect you described sounds very much like the Florida Blue Centipede.  One of two of the largest centipedes in Florida.  If you live in a wooded area, I recommend clearing any and all tree debris from around the property.  The Florida Blue is especially active around oaks.  They are actually beneficial to the home owner.  They consume small insects such as termites, carpenter ants, small roaches, and crickets.  Unfortunately, if your seeing large numbers around your home, I would recommend a thorough termite inspection if you havent had one in a while.  If the porch is primarily wood framed, and since it is more exposed to the elements, there is a good chance of a termite infestation leading to the centipede invasion.

Although investing in your landscaping is important, quite often, the existing landscape just needs a little help.  Sometimes existing palms, shrubs, and decorative plants can be transformed from a tropical jungle to highlights to a well maintained property like in these examples:

NOTE:  The application of Lime is not necessary in most of Central Florida lawns due to high levels of lime present naturally in the substrate. 

Spring (March – May)

Fertilizing – Apply ½ pound of nitrogen (N) (enter .5 in the Fertilizer Calculator) per 1,000 square feet in May or 2 weeks after green-up, whichever is last. Use a complete (N-P-K) turf-grade slow release fertilizer with a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio (12-4-8 or 16-4-8). Yellow appearance may indicate an iron deficiency. Spray iron (ferrous) sulfate (2 ounces in water per 1,000 square feet) or a chelated iron source (like Ironite liquid or granular) to enhance color as needed. Remember that Iron will stain concrete drives and walks so be sure to remove granules prior to watering in. Submit a soil sample to determine nutrient requirements, if you haven’t already. (Contact your county Cooperative Extension Service for details.) Apply lime if the soil-test report suggests it.

Irrigation – Actively growing St. Augustine requires about 1 inch of water per week, all at once, if possible. If you don’t get enough rain, you will have to water. Sandy soils often require more frequent watering (½ inch every third day). Proper irrigation may prevent or reduce pest and other problems. Due to the fact that St. Augustine is often planted in shaded areas with restricted air movement it is essential to not overwater this grass. Reduce irrigation in shaded areas and where heavy soils are present. St. Augustine suffers from overwatering as this can allow diseases and insects to thrive.

Weed Control – Proper mowing, irrigation and fertilization will reduce weed pressures. If crabgrass and goosegrass have been a problem, apply preemergent herbicides by the time dogwoods are in full bloom. Control broadleaf weeds as necessary with postemergent herbicides. St. Augustine is sensitive to certain herbicides (2,4-D and MSMA), so always read and follow label directions and use caution.

Insect Control – Control any white grubs if necessary. If drought symptoms or yellow spots occur in a sunny location, check for chinch bug activity. Push a coffee can (with both top and bottom removed) into the ground and fill it with water. Any chinch bugs present will float. Treat for chinch bugs if you have 20 or more chinch bugs per 1,000 square feet. For any insecticide application read and follow label directions carefully. Control chinch bugs with Talstar. Control grubs with Bayer Advanced Lawn® Season Long grub Control Ready-to-Spread Granules annually in the late spring.

Disease Control – During periods of high heat and high humidity combined Palmetto is susceptible to some turf diseases. It may be a good practice to apply preventative fungicide applications during such periods to maintain healthy Palmetto lawns. If circular patches of brown grass up to several feet in diameter appear, you may have Brown (Large) Patch. Gray Leaf Spot also may be a problem. Control both diseases as necessary with proper fungicides. For any fungicide application always read and follow label directions carefully.

Summer (June – August)

Irrigation – Same as March through May guidelines.

Fertilizing – Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in June and August and 1/2 pound of nitrogen in July. In the absence of a soil test, use a complete (N-P-K) slow release turf type fertilizer with a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio. Consult the Fertilizer Calculator to determine the exact amount to apply to your yard. Yellow appearance may indicate an iron deficiency. Spray iron (ferrous) sulfate (2 ounces in water per 1,000 square feet) or a chelated iron source (like Ironite liquid or granular) to enhance color as needed. Remember that Iron will stain concrete drives and walks so be sure to remove granules prior to watering in. Submit a soil sample to determine nutrient requirements, if you haven’t already. (Contact your county Cooperative Extension Service for details.) Apply lime if the soil-test report suggests it.

Weed Control – Apply postemergent herbicides to control summer annual and perennial broadleaf weeds. Since St. Augustine is sensitive to certain herbicides (2,4-D and MSMA), always read and follow herbicide label directions carefully and use with caution. Do not apply herbicides unless weeds are actively growing and the lawn is not under drought stress. If crabgrass and goosegrass are present, make a note to apply a preemergent herbicide next spring.

Insect Control – If drought symptoms or yellow spots occur in a sunny location, check for chinch bug activity. Push a coffee can (with both top and bottom removed) into the ground and fill it with water. Any chinch bugs present will float. Treat for chinch bugs if you have 20 or more chinch bugs per 1,000 square feet. Control chinch bugs with Talstar. For any insecticide application read and follow label directions carefully.

Fall (September – November)

Fertilization – DO NOT fertilize St. Augustine after August 31.   A winterizer application (Potash) is optional.

Irrigation – Water to prevent drought stress while the grass is actively growing and after the lawn goes dormant to prevent excessive dehydration.

Insect Control – Follow June through August guidelines.

Weed Control – If crabgrass and goosegrass are present, plan to apply a preemergent herbicide next spring.

Disease Control – Check for Brown (Large) Patch and Grey Leaf Spot and treat if present. For any fungicide application always read and follow label directions carefully

Winter (December – February)

Fertilization - Do not apply fertilizer or lime.

Watering – Although the lawn will be dormant, water occasionally to prevent excessive dehydration particularly on newly sodded lawns.

Weed Control – Apply postemergent herbicides to control broadleaf weeds. St. Augustine is sensitive to certain postemergent herbicides like 2,4-D and MSMA, so follow label directions for reducing rates, and use with caution. Selected herbicides like atrazine and simazine can be applied in November or December to control annual bluegrass and several winter annual broadleaf weeds. For any herbicide applications always read and follow label directions carefully.

Disease Control – Check for Brown (Large) Patch and Grey Leaf Spot and treat if present. In heavily shaded areas St. Augustine will sometimes not go fully dormant. If this is the case and Brown Patch is present it can do significant damage through the winter months if left unchecked. For any fungicide application always read and follow label directions carefully.

Our site has some great information on the different types of grasses, palms, trees, and shrubs.  You’ll find information on identifying problems in your yard, proper maintenance, as well as fertilizing and watering.  Find information on mulch, borders, lighting, and irrigation.  As we grow our website, we will be adding more and more useful information, including an FAQs section and articles related to lawn care and landscaping  that we run across while taking care of our clients.

We also welcome lawn related inquiries. If you can’t find the answer, feel free to contact us if you have any questions.

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Bermuda Grass

• Cold Tolerance: good
• Shade Tolerance:: poor
• Watering: Drought tolerant, but needs water to remain green
• Planting: seed, sod, plugs, or sprigs
• Common Problems:  mole crickets, sod webworms, dollar spot

Extremely Common in the wild and in our lawns, Bermuda grass is easily established and can be grown from seed or sprig. Bermuda grass is used most often in parks, large commercial complexes, and of course, is the turf of choice for golf courses. It is also drought resistant. Throughout central Florida, it is very common to see ‘blow in’ areas of Bermuda popping up in St Augustine lawns. Sprigs and clippings from nearby golf courses are easily carried by the wind and will quickly take root in other lawns in the area.   

Bahiagrass

Bahiagrass is resistant to drought and most insect and disease damage.  It is considered a low maintenance turf grass, which will grow rapidly, especially in hotter months with plenty of water.  Although it may grow in a variety of soils.  It does not fare well in soils with high Ph values or along sandy embankements.

• Cold Tolerance: poor
• Shade tolerance: moderate
• Watering: low, and survives drought but does well in soggy areas as well.
• Planting: seed or sod
• Mowing Height: 2″ – 4″ Mow regularly to avoid the numerous tall seed heads that pop up.
• Common Problems: brown patch, dollar spot, mole crickets

St. Augustine Grass

St. Augustine grass is the most widely used grass in Central Florida. It is excellent for coastal regions, thrives in heat, does poorly in cool climates. Excellent to fair under drought conditions. Moderately good under heavy foot traffic. Somewhat shade tolerant. Can be used in moist, semi-fertile soils. At the moment, most common installation method is sodding or plugs; seeds are very difficult to germenate and bring to sprig. 

St Augustine has a very coarse texture but grows very dense and provides a ‘padded’ texture under foot.   It spreads rapidly via stolons or ‘runners’ and has a very shallow root structure compared to some other grasses.   There are a variety of St Augustine grasses available each having unique qualities depending on the environment they are used.  It is a high thatch producer and requires periodic aeriation for best results.

NOTE:  St Augustine is different than colder climate grasses like Bermuda and Bahia.  Some weed & feed products can actual kill or harm St Augustine.  Ensure your product is for ‘St Augustine’ before applying.

• Cold Tolerance: Poor
• Shade Tolerance: moderate, but will become thin under dense shade conditions.
• Planting: sod or plugs
• Watering: regular watering but is adaptive to various conditions over time.
• Mowing Height: 2″ — 4″
• Common Problems: grubs, chinch bugs, mole crickets, sod webworms, fungus, disease

Varieties of St. Augustine:

Floratam:  Most common among homeowners.  Floratam requires a lot of sun and is tolerant to a variety of soils. 

Bitter-Blue:  A better choice for partially shaded lawns, grows slower than other varieties and is less susceptible to cold.

Palmetto:  Newly adapted, Palmetto is becoming more popolar throughout Central Florida especially in intercoastal waterway areas.  It prefers warm weather but fares well in cold.  It is also more resistant to chinch bug damage.  Good in full-sun or partial shade.

Sapphire:  The hardier of all St. Augustine varieties and not as common.  It has a softer texture, deeper color, shade and drought tolerant, and requires less fertilization.  It also is known to recover and adapt to change quickly, and is less susceptible to weed encrouchment.

Seville:  Very dark, deep blue-green in color.  It also has a longer leaf structure which many prefer for esthetic value.  It has a much higher tolerance to shade so is often preferred and florishes in well established wooded areas.